The summit of all summits… The summit of the world.
Location: Tibet/Nepal, Asia
Height: 8,850 metres (29,035 feet)
Planned summit date: May 2008
Planned route: South / Hilliary route
Everest is the highest mountain on Earth. The first ascent to the summit was on 29 May 1953 by Sir Edmund Hilary and his sherpa Tenzig Norgay. They were part of the ninth British attempt to reach the summit and were the second pair to attempt the summit in their party of four. The first pair tried to reach the summit two days before but were forced to turn back due to exhaustion.
Mount Everest is the ultimate mountaineering adventure and one of the most challenging climbs. Evidence is the near 200 deaths on the mountain. These bodies are often visible in the snow as others climb past, a reminder of the dangers and risks of the mountain. Despite the difficulty but perhaps due to its prestige, there had been 3050 ascents to the summit by 2,062 individuals by the end of 2006 and reportedly more than 600 ascents in 2007.
Sherpas
Sherpas are the inhabitants of the Khumbu-valley, the national park surrounding Everest. Living at altitude for generations, they have developed a genetic ability for survival at high altitudes. Once above 3,000 meters (10,000 ft) most Sherpas will easily outrun most fit people. However, even the Sherpas will face problems in the deathzone above 8,000m (23,000ft).
The Sherpas are usually happy and easy going. They take great pride in their mountaineering heritage. Climbers generally need Sherpas to carry oxygen and gear and as a safety on the summit push. In Nepal Sherpas make the distinction between themselves and general porters, as they often serve in a more guide-like role and command higher pay and respect from the community.
Routes
Mt. Everest has two main climbing routes, the southeast ridge from Nepal and the northeast ridge from Tibet. There are 15 routes in total but the rest are less frequently used. The southeast ridge is technically easier and is the more frequently-used route. It was the route used by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953 and it’s the route that Cheryl and Nikki will use. The best time to climb Everest is in the Spring, March – May.
Southeast ridge
Base Camp 5,400 m (17,700 ft). The south route begins with a trek to Base Camp at 5,400m (17,700 ft) on the south side of Everest in Nepal.
Cheryl and Nikki will spend about two months on Everest to complete the climb. Climbers hike to Base Camp, which generally takes about six to eight days to allow for proper altitude acclimatization to prevent altitude sickness. Climbing equipment and supplies are carried by yaks, dzopkyos (yak hybrids) and porters to Base Camp on the Khumbu Glacier. At base camp climbers will hear avalanches coming down the mountain and will listen to the crashes of ice. Base camp can be frustrating, exciting and inspiring as the weeks go on.
The first couple of weeks are spent in Base Camp and doing mini expeditions to acclimatize to the altitude. During this time, Sherpas and some expedition climbers will set up ropes and ladders in the treacherous Khumbu Icefall between Base Camp and Camp 1.
Khumbu Icefall 5,500m – 6,100m (18,000ft – 20,000ft). Seracs, crevasses and shifting blocks of ice make the icefall one of the most dangerous sections of the route. The best thing to do is get through this section and move on. This is not a time for a snack break, as an ice pinnacle could snap off or an avalanche could strike. Many climbers and Sherpas have been killed in this section. To reduce the hazard, climbers will usually begin their ascent well before dawn when the freezing temperatures glue ice blocks in place.
Although it is not a place to linger, there is no benefit in rushing. Each step must be carefully placed, fitting crampons between the two rails of the ladders. It is essential to stay calm and focused.
Camp 1: 6,065 m (19,900 ft). Camp is set up in a flat area for the night. Climbers will hear crevasses and avalanches hoping that no harm will come to them. It is important to set up tents away from any small crack. Some climbers may experience headaches however this is forgotten even if for a few seconds when a little way further the first sight of Everest is seen. This part of the climb is often relatively easy but bad weather can make it difficult.
Camp 2: 6,500 m (21,300 ft) – Advanced Base Camp. Camp 2 is also known as the Valley of Silence as there is little wind. During the daytime it can be unbearably hot due to clear skies, no wind and high altitude. The scenery is stunning. Climbers will also enjoy a last chance for a hot meal as from here on in it will be dehydrated and instant meals only.
Camp 3: 7,470 m (24,500 ft). Camp 3 is located on a small ledge. This makes going to the toilet at night quite a task, but the views are amazing. There will be old and new ropes to contemplate. Climbers should always watch the person above as rocks can fall. It is a steep climb but not high.
Camp 4: 7,920 m (26,000 ft) – The Deathzone. It is called the deathzone because at these altitudes the human body cannot function without oxygen for long periods of time. Additional red blood cells are manufactured, the heart beats faster, non-essential body functions are temporarily shut down, and climbers breath more deeply and more frequently. Sleeping and eating are also very difficult. Climbers will have about 2 or 3 days to make the summit. Any longer at these altitudes, even with oxygen, is very dangerous. Clear weather and low winds are critical factors in deciding to make a summit attempt. If weather does not cooperate within these short few days, climbers are forced to descend, many all the way back down to Base Camp.
The Summit: 8,850 m (29,035 ft). Climbers will begin a summit push at around midnight to make the summit within 10 – 12 hours. The last climb is still 1000m to the summit. “The Balcony” is a small platform and a good place for a quick rest and contemplation at around 8,400m, (27,700 ft).
From here, climbers are faced with many rock steps, often waist deep snow and avalanche risk. Potentially the most exposed part of the climb is the “Cornice traverse” where an error could send a climber down the southwest face 2,400m (8,000ft) or down the right 3,050m (10,000ft). At the end of the traverse is a 12m rock wall called the “Hillary Step”. Once above the step the rest of the push to the summit is comparatively easy. That is, easy compared to what the climbers have already been through but extremely difficult for the average holiday trekker. Climbers will face a loose rocky section with a large entanglement of ropes that can cause difficulty in bad weather.
Climbers will typically spend less than a half-hour on “top of the world” before they need to descend back to Camp 4 before darkness sets in. If afternoon weather becomes a serious problem, there is a risk that supplemental oxygen tanks could run out.
The descent
The descent is still dangerous and takes about 30 hours. Most of the accidents on Everest happen on the way down. Eight people fell badly in 1998 on decent but luckily all survived. This is why most climbers do not celebrate at the top as the expedition is not yet over. The big celebration and sigh of relief is at the bottom.
History
First Summit. In 1953, a ninth British expedition, went to Nepal consisting of two climbing pairs attempting to reach the summit using the South Col Route. The first pair came within 100m of the summit on 26 May, but turned back due to exhaustion. After 2 days of poor weather, the expedition made its second attempt to reach the summit with the second climbing pair. Edmund Hillary from New Zealand and Sherpa Tenzig Norgay reached the summit at 11:30 a.m. local time on 29 May 1953.
Notable “first” summits. On 8 June 1924, George Mallory and Andrew Irvine, both of the United Kingdom, made an attempt on the summit via the north col/north ridge route from which they never returned. While on a lecture tour beforehand, in the United States, a reporter asks Mallory why he wants to climb Everest, and Mallory immortally replied “Because it’s there” Controversy exists in the mountaineering community as to whether this reached the summit on their attempt. The general consensus among climbers has been that they did not as reviews of their travel diary does not show any evidence of reaching the summit. In 1999, the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition found Mallory’s body.
First without Oxygen. On 20 August 1980, Reinhold Messner (Italy) became the first person to complete a solo summit of Everest, without supplementary oxygen or support. He climbed for three days alone from his base camp at 6500 meters. His route via North Col, was noted as the 8th climbing route to the summit.
First Woman. On 16 May 1975, Junko Tabei of Japan, became the first woman to reach the summit of Everest. She used the South-East Ridge route. Junko was also the first woman to climb the seven summits which she completed in 1992.
First Australian. On 3 October 1984, Tim Macartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer became the first Australians to climb Mt Everest. This ascent was done without oxygen and set a new route up the North Face.
Rescue of an Australian. Lincoln Hall was thought to have died on 25 May 2006, while descending from the summit of Mount Everest, after suffering from a form of altitude sickness. According to reports, Sherpas attempted a rescue for hours, but as night began to fall, their oxygen supplies diminished and snow blindness set in, they were ordered by their expedition leader to leave an apparently dead Hall on the mountain and return to camp. A statement was later released announcing his death. However, the next morning at 7am (12 hours later) Hall was found still alive at 8700m by a team of Americans and Canadians making a summit attempt. One team member described the scene just below the Second Step:
“Sitting to our left, about two feet from a 10,000 foot drop, was a man. Not dead, not sleeping, but sitting cross legged, in the process of changing his shirt. He had his down suit unzipped to the waist, his arms out of the sleeves, was wearing no hat, no gloves, no sunglasses, had no oxygen mask, regulator, ice axe, oxygen, no sleeping bag, no mattress, no food nor water bottle. ‘I imagine you’re surprised to see me here,’ he said. Now, this was a moment of total disbelief to us all. Here was a gentleman, apparently lucid, who had spent the night without oxygen at 8600m, without proper equipment and barely clothed. And ALIVE.”
A rescue effort that mountain observers described as ‘unprecedented in scale’ then swung into action. The team abandoned their summit attempt to stay with Hall who was badly frostbitten and delusional from the effects of severe cerebral oedema, while a rescue team of 12 Sherpas, climbed up from below.